Adventures over

What an amazing place India is. Chaos, colour, people, endless people,
smiles, colour, variety, movement, rubbish, smells, many delightful, heat,
chill, great food and less great food, happy people and dreadful poverty.
Mad traffic.

Yet in all this throng and seeming chaos a wonderful country unfolds to the
traveller with an open mind and awe in his heart.

Wonderful, wonderful India!

Will I be back. The only question is when.

The adventure is not quite over yet

We found our train. Which was described as couchette for overnight to Delhi

On the toy train from shimla

Departing shimla

The train is more comfortable than anticipated!

Almost back to shimla

Last day

Just to show that two weeks in India doesn't make any better looking!

Shoja

What a view from our fabulous accommodation at 8700 feet.

After some dull, by indian standard roads, you know two lanes of tarmac and
even white lines but still many ruminants wandering about, we left the main
highway and the heat and climbed about 6000 feet up a fabulous
switchbacking road which ended on an even more fun switchbacking gravel
road. I was nearly laughing all the way up as I whizzed by my slower riding
buddies chucking gravel and dust up in my trail.

The accommodation is out of this world.

All going very well and rather sad tomorrow is our last biking day.

Shoja

What a view from our fabulous accommodation at 8700 feet.

After some dull, by indian standard roads, you know two lanes of tarmac and
even white lines but still many ruminants wandering about, we left the main
highway and the heat and climbed about 6000 feet up a fabulous
switchbacking road which ended on an even more fun switchbacking gravel
road. I was nearly laughing all the way up as I whizzed by my slower riding
buddies chucking gravel and dust up in my trail.

The accommodation is out of this world.

All going very well and rather sad tomorrow is our last biking day.

Dad enjoying lunch

Have lost a lot of height and now sweltering at 3600 feet in the foothills.

Should be staying at around 8000 feet tonight and then up to 12000
tomorrow. So much cooler

Seems strange to be on tarmac roads with two lanes and the odd insect
buzzing about. I am almost missing the hard off road sections and the snow.

After the inner line

So let's go back a few days. We crossed the sensitive inner line very close
to Tibet, at one point only about a km away. Crossing the line meant the
end of mobile phone signals. Not because the steep and arid mountain
prevented access but because the Indians were jamming any signal, lest the
Chinese announce their decision to invade by mobile phone.

We were now in spiti valley proper although at least two days full riding
it was no ordinary valley more like riding along a dirt track carved out of
the rock in the side of the grand canyon with the alps occasionally popping
into view as we first gained height leaving the river below, then zig
zagged back down to the river to cross a bridge.

We got as far as Nacco where we stopped to find out the status of the land
slide.. It was only a few km away but impassable. We waited in the shade,
occasional blasts being heard around the corner.. Then as the sun lowered
we moved into the sun then finally as it set being the mountains we donned
warm gear. Eventually the news came that the road would not be cleared that
night, so we set off to find accommodation in nacco. Basic to say the least
but with lots of good interaction with some motorbiking indians who, with
the assistance of dad managed to restore electricity to our humble abode.

After the inner line

So let's go back a few days. We crossed the sensitive inner line very close
to Tibet, at one point only about a km away. Crossing the line meant the
end of mobile phone signals. Not because the steep and arid mountain
prevented access but because the Indians were jamming any signal, lest the
Chinese announce their decision to invade by mobile phone.

We were now in spiti valley proper although at least two days full riding
it was no ordinary valley more like riding along a dirt track carved out of
the rock in the side of the grand canyon with the alps occasionally popping
into view as we first gained height leaving the river below, then zig
zagged back down to the river to cross a bridge.

We got as far as Nacco where we stopped to find out the status of the land
slide.. It was only a few km away but impassable. We waited in the shade,
occasional blasts being heard around the corner.. Then as the sun lowered
we moved into the sun then finally as it set being the mountains we donned
warm gear. Eventually the news came that the road would not be cleared that
night, so we set off to find accommodation in nacco. Basic to say the least
but with lots of good interaction with some motorbiking indians who, with
the assistance of dad managed to restore electricity to our humble abode.

Now in manali

Gone is the road side snow and the high himalayas. We are having a rest day
here in what feels like a humid tropical environment but is still at 6000
feet.

This is a tourist town apparently popular with honeymooners where one of
the key things to do is hire a pair of skis and a big jacket then take the
several hour and wild journey up the rotang pass to have your photo taken
in the snow. Not to ski or anything but it is a sign of wealth in most of
India to have even touched snow. We did see some folk sledging, which I
guess even westerners would be hard pushed to give up the chance of doing
when it is 30 degrees just down the road. Oh but what a road. It May have
once been tarmac but due to constant landslides it is in a constant state
of disrepair. We dropped roughly 6000 feet in a single long switchbacking
track. Easily the hardest of the trip due to the state of it and the
oncoming trucks that barely trundle up the slopes and busses seeming hell
bent on their own destruction and willingness to take everyone else with
them.

More to come but as I have insufficient superlatives to describe yesterday,
that will have to wait until I save some up!

More tomorrow

In bed in manali after 3 of the most amazing days of our lives. The scenery
and remoteness was unbelievable. Almost as much as the roads which were
bull dozed, blasted or snow ploughed open for us right in front of our
eyes.

More tomorrow after a chance to recover.

Breakfast nearly at the roof of the world about 4000 m

The inner line

Just about to cross the inner line

it gets better and better

The adventure really starts!

After an enforced rest day hoping the pass would be open we headed back
along through a huge construction zone where India is building two enormous
hydro schemes and finished up a tremendous alpine switchback road on great
tarmac to our hotel in kalpa which as you can see has stupendous views
across the valley to the mountain where Shiva dwells.

Tomorrow will be a day of uncertainty as we enter the spiti valley true but
may be turned back if the road is not yet open. There is talk of having to
carry the bikes across which will be interesting as the average age is
sixty something. Still, the unknown is what adventures are about.

This is also likely to be the last Blog for four days are mobile reception
is very unlikely from now on.

All going very well indeed and dad thoroughly enjoying himself too.

Kalpa

Not a bad view from tonights hotel. Just a quick one as tea and pakora is
on its way!

Heading off again

Nothing much to report. Heading to Kalpa after lunch. So here is a
gratitutious view!

A new plan

The indian army are currently working on clearing the 200m landslide which
is at a notorious spot. Now just because I say army don't imagine lots of
large machinery shifting boulders. Rather loads of men with hammers and if
they are lucky chisels. So we are staying in our luxury camp site an extra
night then attempting our itinerary with two shorter days being combined.
Staying here an extra night is no loss at all better than the hotel we
stayed in at shimla!

Uncertainty

A half day rest means we had a gentle stroll through the local village of
wood and stone buildings. A design to protect them from earthquakes.
Beginning to feel the altitude and when combined with the heat frequent
stops are required.

We have heard that there is a major landslide blocking our route for
tomorrow in the direction of tabo. The only way around us an 800 km
diversion. So not really possible. We will find out at lunch just shortly.
Fingers crossed because otherwise we will miss out the highlight which is
spiti valley

Camping at sangla

We are not really rouging it. Our tents have en suite and electricity and
even a good enough signal for email!

The camp site is by the river, dramatic hillside on the right bank and
sheer mountain the other. The zigzag gravel road down to it was a fitting
end to a demanding day.

Dad's confidence is building and he is delighted no longer to be at the
tail end.

Having a great time!! Off to have soup by a bonfire and watch the shooting
stars of a himalayan night sky.

The roads get more interesting!

Dad and his riding buddy Ken

Maddest road yet

The photo does not do justice. The road is carved out off the cliff which
plunges 1000 feet to the torrent below

Come to a stop

Everything stops when the have to blast a section of landslide off the road

Early

Our Hindu temple accommodation is very peaceful, scenic, even tranquil,
that is until 5 am when all hell let's loose. They start playing very loud
drumming and singing through loudspeakers. I am sure the worshippers are
delighted by this start to the day but having had a beer two many an
chatting until after midnight I was not delighted!

Anyway another very sunny and got day today with our first proper off road
sections.
Oh and I think dad has six years on the oldest member! A fine 72 year old!

Glad that one of support riders is superman

Amazing day

Our first day on the bike was intoxicating. Pretty demanding without being
too much so. We contoured crossing from one ridge side to the other
avoiding the landslide debris which was common due to the bad weather they
had last week. In some places some odd the boulders in the road were the
size of busses! After a long and very alpine section we dropped to the side
of a wild torrent of a river with the snow capped himalayas in becoming
ever closer. After tea break at a surprisingly posh hotel we heading about
20 km crossing our way up the hillside to our accommodation with you can
see in the photo. Apparently it was the last place in India to have a human
sacrifice! Dad is well but a bit weary and like me can hardly believe the
day we have had. The best day on a motorbike ever for me!

Rest stop

Lunch... Another curry

All well after first mornings riding

Roads at the moment are well and cut through amazing scenery. Manda think
of motorbiking to hille in Nepal

Ready for the off on day 1

Shimla from hotel room

View from room

Shimla

Our first non travelling day in India has been fantastic but also a very
soft introduction. We are in a realively wealthy tourist area so no beggars
or touts and everyone having a great time when not on their mobile.
Tomorrow is our first motorbiking day so the fun really starts then. Things
going so well that dad is even enjoying the curries and we went shopping
for footwear! Dad delighted not to be the oldest in fact I would guess
average age is about 60! Company pretty good and loads of staff. The medic
is a proper and very thorough doctor from Norway. We all had medical check
up and questionnaire. Dads cough really benefitting from the dry air. The
sun has been shinning and warm when walking in it but surprisingly cool at
night, so a good sleep is easy, though dad and I are sharing a double bed!
Tomorrow night we are sleeping in a Hindu temple!!

Cheers

Alan Mackie
Power Server Solutions
IBM Systems and Technology Group

Mobile: 07717 467932 mobex 37268088
Email: alan.mackie@uk.ibm.com

What is the only platform with Oracle support for Virtualisation?
PowerVM!!!!!

Arrived shimla!

After 3 hours of alpine type roads but with indian driving we safely
arrived not so much culture shocked as road shocked! Having a beer and the
sun is shinning so good so far!

Cheers

Alan Mackie
Power Server Solutions
IBM Systems and Technology Group

Mobile: 07717 467932 mobex 37268088
Email: alan.mackie@uk.ibm.com

What is the only platform with Oracle support for Virtualisation?
PowerVM!!!!!

First hitch

Crossed Delhi as the sun rose without hitch and even surprised at the
'luxury' of the train to kalka. Then the little toy train to shimla was
loaded up, engine running. After half an hour they said it was cancelled
due to landslide. So Mackie rustled up 5 taxis and we set off on the death
defying 95 km of mountain road

Cheers

Alan Mackie
Power Server Solutions
IBM Systems and Technology Group

Mobile: 07717 467932 mobex 37268088
Email: alan.mackie@uk.ibm.com

What is the only platform with Oracle support for Virtualisation?
PowerVM!!!!!

Delhi!

Well its not like khathmandu airport at all. No touts. No one running off
with your baggage. Even air conditioned! Almost disappointing!! Have to
hang around here for a couple of hours before we head for the first train
apparently it is nicer here than the station

Cheers

Alan Mackie
Power Server Solutions
IBM Systems and Technology Group

Mobile: 07717 467932 mobex 37268088
Email: alan.mackie@uk.ibm.com

What is the only platform with Oracle support for Virtualisation?
PowerVM!!!!!

IMG00083.jpg

Would you want to go on holiday with this pair?

Cheers

Alan Mackie
Power Server Solutions
IBM Systems and Technology Group

Mobile: 07717 467932 mobex 37268088
Email: alan.mackie@uk.ibm.com

What is the only platform with Oracle support for Virtualisation?
PowerVM!!!!!

Day minus one

So the final packing is all but done... tickets, visa and passports checked mulitple times...

Not 100% sure about baggage allowance and number of bags...

Wondering about the culture shock awaiting us in Dehli, along with all the heat, noise and smells.

So what are we off to do? Well fly to Dehli via Dubai, then train, then the toy train to Shimla (summer capital of the Raj). We will then pick up our Royal Enfield Motorbikes and head around the high altitude dusty and crumbling roads of Himachal Pradesh, just on the border with Tibet.

I hope you enjoy the blog as it unfolds... who knows what is out there... its an adventure after all and not a trip to Benidorm!